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Oct 14, 2024

Why the brooch is currently the most fashionable item of jewellery to own?

In the world of jewellery, the traditional brooch is making a major comeback. Growing awareness of its adaptability and capacity to send subtle signals, along with a number of celebrities donning it

In the world of jewellery, the traditional brooch is making a major comeback. Growing awareness of its adaptability and capacity to send subtle signals, along with a number of celebrities donning it on the red carpet, have contributed to its comeback.

The brooch is back in a big way, and we don’t just mean that in a literal sense. It had long stayed in a supporting role, waiting in the wings as the image of Queen Elizabeth dressing up her matching tweed outfits with an assortment of valuable brooches more than cemented the accessory’s reputation as a twee accessory relegated to grandmothers and afternoon cream teas.

Nothing could be further from the brooch’s origin story and its potential to make a powerful, even symbolic, statement. Thankfully, it is staking its claim as a bold, modern and relevant accessory, an essential piece in every jewellery parure.

The history of the brooch is a rich, varied one, dating back to ancient civilisations, where they served both functional and decorative purposes. Even today, the brooch denotes status and wealth, visual symbols subtly expressing personal and political messages.

“The art of the brooch could almost be compared to the language of flowers!” says Olivier Segura, managing director of l’École Asia Pacific School of Jewellery Arts in Hong Kong. “There are many codes and designs to express a feeling or get a message across. For example, former American Secretary of State Madeleine Albright used to wear brooches that were very significant of the moments or people she met in the world. Her collection of more than 200 brooches testifies to this. She is one of greatest defenders of ‘diplomacy by the brooch’.”

Attending a ceremony on Capitol Hill in 2013, where her friend Hillary Clinton was honoured with the Lantos Human Rights Prize, Albright suitably accessorised with a Vivian Shimoyama pin made of pieces of fused glass, named “Breaking the Glass Ceiling”.

As it turns out, Queen Elizabeth’s adornment of certain brooches served as coded messages to those sharp enough to discern them. She made her feelings for Trump particularly known on his first visit to the UK in 2018 when, on the first day, she cannily wore a green brooch presented to her by – oh, the irony – the Obamas. On the second day of said visit, she wore a snowflake brooch gifted to her by Canada, Trump’s least favourite country; “snowflake” was a term he often witheringly used to criticise detractors. The queen topped her sartorial choices on the last day, wearing a brooch her mother wore to the funeral of her father, King George VI.

But what of the recent revival of the brooch? Renowned jewellery influencer and writer, Katerina Perez, has her own theory. “I recall the resurgence of the brooch trend happening around 2016,” she says. “This was significantly influenced by leading fashion maisons like Chanel, Gucci, Hermès, and Michael Kors, which showcased brooches in innovative styles on the runway. Rather than the traditional lapel placement, brooches were reimagined, pinned to belts or positioned at the top button of a shirt, signalling a fresh fashion direction. The versatility of brooches has expanded dramatically; new designs often feature multifunctional elements, doubling as hair clips, and their unisex appeal has undoubtedly contributed to their ongoing resurgence.”

Some of these brooches have already entered into the pantheon of legendary designs. The whimsical bird and animal brooches from Van Cleef & Arpels have delighted the likes of Princess Grace of Monaco and Jackie Kennedy Onassis. The panther motif at Cartier remains an instantly recognisable classic, interpreted in various ways with a number of precious stones. The latest interpretation in brooch form is a white gold marvel set with 51 sapphires, emerald eyes, an onyx nose and 604 brilliant-cut diamonds.

At Tiffany & Co, Bird On A Rock is a house icon, with several permutations in its name. Jean Schlumberger’s masterpiece was created in 1965 and today, is a transformable, versatile piece that instantly gets the room talking. The latest Bird On A Rock high jewellery capsule collection reinterprets the emblematic creation in a kaleidoscope of colourful gemstones and diamonds.

Brooches have also found advocates in celebrities. “Red carpet trends have a significant impact on the resurgence of high jewellery brooches. They have emerged as the standout accessory for them to flaunt in style,” says Bebe Bakhshi, Melbourne-based digital content creator, and creative director and founder of the Champagne Gem website.

“Another crucial aspect is our inherent fascination with diversity and unique aesthetics. While traditional jewellery pieces like necklaces, rings, earrings and bracelets have become more commonplace, brooches have reintroduced a fresh and distinctive element to high-end jewellery fashion.”

To wit, Michelle Yeoh wore a Cindy Chao 2023 Black Label Masterpiece VI Lumière Feather brooch in titanium with yellow diamonds, conch pearls, sapphires, rhodolites and diamonds at the recent Oscars. Meanwhile, actress and singer Cynthia Erivo’s inventive head brooch at the Met Gala turned, um, heads. Initially a custom, archival hair piece designed by jeweller Jennifer Behr, this novel way of wearing a brooch speaks to the endless possibilities of this versatile accessory.

“Brooches offer a fantastic range of styling options: you can pin them to a jacket lapel or shoulder, a coat, a buttoned-up shirt, a belt, a hat or a handbag. Women also use them to add flair to their hairdos,” says Perez. “I think a brooch can really elevate a simple outfit, making it cooler and more interesting. Whether you’re adding a bit of sparkle to a blazer, a shirt or even a T-shirt, a brooch is a versatile accessory that can transform a casual look.”

Bakhshi suggests looking for “brooches that double as rings or necklaces – a versatile accessory ideal for transitioning seamlessly from day to night. When it comes to special occasions, selecting a brooch that complements the dress design while making a bold statement is key.”

This year’s Bro-brooch phenomenon also did much to catapult the brooch to a savvier, gender-fluid and of-the-moment accessory. While the trend challenged conventional fashion norms, it added a layer of sophistication and personality to men’s wardrobes, making it a fascinating addition to the world of high jewellery. Celebrities like Timothée Chalamet (an early brooch adopter), Jeff Goldblum and Harry Styles have been spotted sporting large, ornate brooches on the red carpet, pairing them with everything from tailored suits to casual jackets.

This is nothing new, according to Segura. “Throughout history, jewellery was mainly worn by men as it was a symbol of political, military or religious power. Then women gained these powers, and the status roles of jewellery then evolved towards more femininity, to then become the symbol of the power of love and passion.

“Indeed, more and more men wear brooches today, just as in the past, because the brooch is a simple and effective means of expression,” says Segura. “I’ve been wearing brooches myself for a long time, because, as a gemologist, it’s a very good way to wear the gems I like and to be able to match them to the colour of my suits.”

The latest trend in brooches seems to veer on prominent. “The mantra is clear: the bigger, the better!” says Bakhshi. “Brooches serve as a powerful means of self-expression, and magnificence and grandeur are key to creating an impact.”

One of the most notable trends blends traditional gemstones with unconventional elements like ceramics and titanium. “In terms of materials, the choice of titanium over 18K gold is gaining popularity due to the weight of brooches and the desire to prevent damage to delicate fabrics while wearing them,” says Bakhshi.

Perez has also noted a growing trend towards personalised and customised brooches. “It allows individuals to select designs that reflect their unique tastes and personal stories, enhancing the brooch’s appeal and making it a more meaningful and cherished accessory,” she says.

The brooch, for the most part, has gone beyond trend and looks set to stay as a permanent piece in any high jewellery parure. “I do believe that more men and women will continue to embrace brooches and become more comfortable incorporating them into their wardrobes,” Perez continues.

What’s paramount, however, is how wearing a brooch makes one feel. “For both the designer and the wearer of the brooch, it is a means of expression and pleasure,” says Segura. And as Perez shares, “Buy what you love, what gives you lots of happy emotions, but it has to be something you would be able to wear, rather than keep in your safe.”

This article was first published in Prestige Singapore